The Maltese Islands are situated in the southern central Mediterranean 95km (60 miles) south of Sicily and only a three-hour flight from Britain. Collectively known as Malta, the three islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino have a population of 350,000, 98 per cent of whom follow the Catholic faith. The islands are incredibly rich in history, boasting the oldest standing ruins in Europe (3,400 BC) at Mnajdra Temple on Malta and Ggantija on Gozo.

Subject to many conquests over the years - by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish and French - the islands were ruled for more than 200 years by the Knights of St John, who left their mark in the form of the massively fortified town of Valletta, numerous fabulous cathedrals and a system of forts in strategic positions. During the Second World War, the islands were once more under siege, and in 1942 the people of Malta were awarded the George Cross for their outstanding bravery.

Now fully independent, the islanders speak a curious mixture of Arabic and Latin, known as Malti. English is spoken everywhere, however, and German in most hotels and dive centres.

Once the top overseas diving destination for Brits, Malta used to provide many with their first taste of (semi) tropical diving. Compared to our northern climes, the Mediterranean was seen as a great place to explore, with exceptionally clear and warm water. But then it fell out of favour. Scare stories of massive pollution, no fish, devastated corals and poor visibility throughout the Mediterranean, combined with the ready availability of diving in the Red Sea, resulted in a decline in diver numbers.

Now, I'm delighted to say, Malta appears to have weathered the storm and is at last seeing a resurgence in popularity. Unlike many other areas of the Mediterranean, Malta still provides first-class diving, with stunning topography, varied marine life and good visibility. Increasing numbers of British divers are coming to realise this - and that the islands offer a cheap and more accessible alternative to the Red Sea. I, for one, would have no problem recommending Malta as a great destination, whether you're a learner, a more experienced diver or a marine photographer.

There are around 25 registered dive centres on the islands which, for the most part, are very professional with many years' experience. All have weekly training courses. In addition, diving is remarkably cheap: several dive centres can offer amazing weekly packages for less than £95, to include all accommodation and unlimited diving. Getting there won't break the bank either, with affordable flights from all over the UK, while eating out costs at least 30 per cent less than in Britain and is generally of a high standard.

As for the diving itself, Malta has some of the most scenic sites, with wonderful walls, spectacular natural archways, caves, caverns and wrecks. Fish life is much more profuse than I'd been led to believe, with huge shoals of damselfish, bream, bogue and smelt at most sites and a resident school of barracuda at San Dimitri Point on Gozo. Night diving is very popular and most dive centres offer several trips a week.

Malta is the largest of the three islands, at 27km (17 miles) long by 14km (9 miles) wide. The diving is predominantly in three main areas: north of the Marfa ridge; Qawra to Meliena; and, to a lesser extent, Valletta Harbour and a few isolated sites on the south and east coasts.

Most of the diving can be done from the shore and the majority of sites have fairly easy access, but a number are only for the extremely energetic, with long walks down steep cliffs. There are also some very deep wrecks, such as HMS Stubborn and HMS Southwold, which are not described here as they're considered too deep for the average sport diver on holiday.

The caves and cliffs to the south-west are spectacular and the tiny island of Filfla - once used for target practice during the war, now a nature reserve - is still relatively unexplored (permits are needed). The surrounding waters are littered with armaments, but one or two dive centres and clubs, including the local Atlam Sub Aqua Club, regularly visit the waters around the island.

North of the Marfa Ridge

Cirkewwa, or Marfa Point as it's more commonly known, is a mecca both for dive training and for more experienced divers keen to visit the wreck of the tugboat Rozi. At the time of writing, however, major redevelopment work is scheduled for the area around the ferry port, with an extension being made to the existing harbour, and there's a possibility that several of the most popular sites may be lost to divers. It will probably take several years to complete the work, so enjoy the diving here while you can.

Marfa Point has six sites, each with its own characteristics: a natural arch to the north of the ferry pier, the Rozi, the training pool, the Madonna statue, the chimney and Paradise Bay.

Maltese diving Sites

1 Cirkewwa Arch

Seldom dived, as most divers tend never to go beyond the Rozi, this archway is located along the edge of the protective reef and set back from the drop-off. The arch is the crowning glory of the dive as the rest of the reef is made up of a thick algae fuzz and posidonia beds.

2 The Rozi

Accessed from the shore by an old iron pier, the Rozi was sunk deliberately in 1992 as an attraction for tourists taking a submarine trip around the area. Sadly, the trips have stopped due to escalating costs, but this wonderful little tugboat sits perfectly upright on a sandy bottom inside a rocky amphitheatre, with the level deck at 30m. The ship is slowly being colonised and all areas are accessible. Surrounding the ship are thousands of fish, with chromis, bream and sand smelt the predominant species. Huge anemones (Condylactis aurantica) cover the flat sandy sea-bed around the wreck.

3 The Madonna

This statue of the Virgin Mary was donated, and placed by the Amphibians Diving Club. It sits in a small natural cavern in 18m of water. As you continue out towards the point from the Madonna, you'll come to some attractive overhangs covered in golden zoanthids (Parazoanthus axinellae). These lead to a largish swim-through, which can be negotiated all the way through the headland.

4 The Training Pool

Access is via a concrete ramp down to the water. A short swim takes you into the first of two small valleys between the rocky reefs where much of the dive training takes place. If you continue over to your left and then out to sea, you'll reach the edge of the wall with a large overhanging shelf.

5 The Chimney

Further round to the left beyond the first headland you'll come across a fissure where you can find moray eels (Muraena helena) and coral shrimps (Stenopus spinosus). The fissure runs towards a large cavern with four narrow exits, which is very photogenic. The site is great for night dives and quite safe.

6 Paradise Bay

You'll need to take a hike over very sharp fossilised rock south of the car-park before you can start this dive, which goes around the headland to the north and follows the edge of the wall. The shallows are always filled with thousands of juvenile fish, but beware of fishermen who feed them to attract them closer to their bait. Divers should keep clear of all fishing areas.

Qawra to Mellieha

7 Dragonara Cave (Coral Grotto/ L'Ahrax Point)

This is a popular dive with photographers as there are some beautiful scenic views looking out to sea from inside the caverns. The boat anchors in around 10m and from there it's a short swim to the outside cavern. A tunnel at 5 to 7m leads to a mini inland sea which is open to the sky. Being almost completely land-locked, the water is often a few degrees warmer than outside, resulting in increased coral growth with lots of golden cup corals (Astroides calycularis), false coral (Myriapora truncata) and many different types of tubeworm and starfish.

8 Qawra Reef

Here, the dive boat can anchor on the reef lip in around 12m. Dropping over the algae-covered rocks, you'll see there are five big caves to explore, all indented about 10 to 12m into the rocky wall. The caverns are safe for divers and the walls are covered in the sea rose algae Pseudolithophyllum expansum) and the sea lace bryozoan (Sertella septentrionalis). The marine goldfish (Anthia anthias), considered quite rare around the islands, can be found here. Valletta Harbour Once the scene of massive aerial bombardments during the Second World War, Valletta Harbour is host to a large number of wrecks, most of which are off-limits due to their location in major shipping lanes. Two of them, however, HMS Maori and the barge Carolito, are perfect for exploration.

9 Manuel Island Barge Carolita

Probably mistaken for a submarine, the Carolita barge was struck in her stern by a torpedo on the night of April 21, 1942. She sank immediately and now rests facing up a steep, silty slope, her bow at 6m, her stern at 22m. The deck is flat and covered in silt and there are two hatches up front with restricted access. The engine room can be reached from beneath the bridge or in through the damaged stern.

10 HMS Maori

Launched in 1937, HMS Maori saw considerable action in the Norwegian Campaign, Atlantic convoys and the Mediterranean. On the night of February 12, 1942, she received a direct hit into her engine room and sank. Declared a hazard to navigation, she was subsequently 'wrecked' and her guns removed. Part of the raised bridge is still there and, from the rear, divers are able to gain relatively safe and easy access to her remains with exit through the large holes in her starboard side. There are still some live shells sticking out of the wreckage and mud, which should not be touched.

South East Coast

11 Blenheim Bomber

Approximately 800m due east of Xorb Il-Ghagin, off south-east Malta, in a depth of 42m, the remains of this aircraft are now on the list of 'essential things to see' for the experienced diver. The engine and wings are intact, but the foresection of the fuselage has been smashed off and now lies several metres in front of the main part of the wreckage. Most of the Maltese operators visit this site.

12 Delimara Point

This very exposed site is at the extreme south-east of Malta, around the flat wedge-shaped rock off the headland. A popular dive, as the visibility is often the clearest of anywhere around the islands, the wall drops down to around 12m. Here you should be able to find a vertical fissure, which drops to the sea-bed among some huge algae-covered boulders. 2

Gozo

Gozo is one of the most popular diving destinations in the Mediterranean. At just over a quarter the size of Malta, the island is 15km long by 7km at its widest point and has a total of 43km of coastline. The diving is incredibly scenic with some of the most dramatic vertical cliff faces, natural arches and caves to be found anywhere in the world.

Most of the diving is from the shore and several of the more popular sheltered sites are prey to rainwater run-off. This can reduce the underwater visibility to nil, due to the suspended particulate washed down from the limestone hills and quarries. The north shore from Marsalforn to the Ghasri Valley has deep water directly off the limestone shore, so visibility is generally good, but by far the best diving in all of the archipelago is at Dwejra Point.

To the south-west and south of Gozo, the land mass rears up vertically, with few entry points except at Xlendi Bay. From St Andrew's Divers Cove, much of the coastline is visited by dive boat as it's the only way to reach the caves below, particularly towards the Ta Cenc Cliffs, which are quite incredible.

Gozo Dive Sites

Dwejra Point

This area of western Gozo has several fantastic sites, a number of which you'll want to return to time after time. Here, divers can visit two of the natural wonders of the Mediterranean, the gigantic natural arch known as the Azure Window, and the Inland Sea, a sheltered lagoon cut by an awesome fissure running through the headland.

1 Fungus Rock

This massive lump of limestone, which can be reached only by boat, has a hole running through the northern part of it. During the time of the Knights of St John, a cable-car operated between the rock and the mainland, enabling the Knights to collect a rare fungus (Cynomorium coccineum), which is effective against dysentery. Underwater, the scenery is as dramatic as above, with vertical walls, fissures, gullies and caverns.

2 Crocodile Rock

Dive boats anchor on the top of the rocky reef between Crocodile Rock and the shore, where the depth is around 7m. The rock platform here is deeply grooved and covered in several species of marine algae. Following the reef to the southern edge of the rock, there is a natural amphitheatre with near vertical walls. Continue around to the right and you'll find a number of deeply incised fissures, where the bottom of the wall gives way to a steeply sloping sea-bed of huge algae-covered boulders.

3 Coral Cave

This is a cave with a huge semi-circular opening, a sandy bottom and a tumble of boulders beside the entrance. The silty sea-bed slopes up to around 21m, where large, burrowing anemones (Cerianthus membranaceus) can be found. Turning right, or to the north, you will then come to a vertical wall which drops to 30m. Exit is via the Blue Hole.

4 The Blue Hole and The Chimney

The Blue Hole is a natural rock formation carved out over the centuries by the action of the wind and water. Offering a sheltered entry, the site has a huge, almost square archway covered in golden cup corals (Parazoanthus axinellae). The large cave at the bottom of the hole is also worth exploring. This dive leads you round to the left, or west, until you reach a fissure in the near vertical wall. Follow the fissure in and it will lead you into a chimney, which rises up through the reef and has two exit points.

5 Azure Window

Looking up from the depths to the huge arch above the surface, you can see how this site got its name. Large boulders lie below the archway where they've fallen from above (which is somewhat disconcerting), but the marine life is prolific and the rocky surfaces are covered in spiny starfish (Marthasterias glacialis) and tiny tubeworms (Bispira vulticornis). It's incredibly scenic here and divers tend to travel around the headland and back to the Blue Hole, which is the best entry and exit point.

6 Inland Sea

This site is often spoiled by rainwater run-off from the quarries in the hills, but when conditions are perfect it's a fantastic dive through a narrow canyon that stretches 80m through the headland to open water beyond. The view of the deep blue ocean is spectacular. Around the corner, to both the right and the left, further vertical fissures in the cliff face can be explored at all levels.

7 San Dimitri Point

Just south of the point, the most westerly tip of Gozo, a shallow reef juts out from a sheltered spike off the headland. Here a dive boat can anchor in 6m and the reef top is perfect for completing any timed safety stops at the end of your dive. Head out due west in open water and you'll come across some massive shoals of barracuda (Sphyraena sphyraena), then turn around and come back into the wall as it curves around to the south.

8 The Blue Dome (Ghasri Valley/The Cathedral Cave)

The dive here goes from the right-hand side of the steeply sloping wall at the mouth of the Ghasri Valley and is where I photographed my first seahorse (Hippocampus ramulosus) in Malta. However, the best part of the dive is the cave itself. Entry is only 5m below the surface and leads you through to a huge dome where you can surface and have a chat with your buddy. The sea-bed is covered in massive boulders and the view to the outside 'blue' of the ocean is breathtaking.

9 Reqqa Point

Depending on the surge, access is either to the right or left of the headland, but the dive is conducted by swimming around the headland to the left. The wall here is near vertical in many places and is cut by numerous fissures, caves and crevices. On the submarine section of the headland there are two chimneys or holes, which drop down through the wall. To the right of the sheltered inlet a chimney plunges through the reef from 6 to 16m, and on the headland you'll find another, much deeper chimney.

10 Twin Arches (Marsalforn Reef)

An extended rocky headland with two large archways. The first starts at 20m and directly underneath is the second, which stretches to the sea-bed at 45m. The undersides of the arches are covered in small colourful sponges and golden cup corals (Astroides calycularis) and the fish life is prolific.

11 Fessej Rock (Black Rock)

Fessej Rock rises about 12m above the water and plunges 50m below into a tumble of huge boulders. Boats can anchor by placing a chain around a small rocky outcrop close to the surface. Essentially the dive is around the rock, descending and then ascending in a spiral to bring you back to the boat's mooring. Barracuda, tuna and grouper, as well as octopus and lobster, can be found on this dive. This site is one of the handful around the islands to which the government restricts access primarily to conserve archaeological treasures. Permission can be granted but it is often laborious to achieve. Your dive centre will provide up-to-date information.

12 Mgarr Ix-Xini

This is a very popular dive with photographers due to the huge variety of fish species, including flying gurnard (Dactylopterus volitans), stargazers (Uranoscopus scaber), picarel (Spicara flexuosa) and seahorses (Hippocampus ramulosus). There is also an interesting cave about 100 along the right-hand wall at 14m, which travels quite far in and has a sharp, narrow twist to the left at the end. The sheltered valley and shallow depths make this a very popular site for night dives.

13 Dawra tas-Sanap
A personal favourite, this is a deep cave and natural arch eroded from the surrounding cliffs. At the bottom of the arch are some massive boulders covered in colourful sponges. Swimming south from here at around 20m, you'll find the massive semi-circular cavern. The wall becomes vertical once more as you swim around to the bay on your left and the water becomes much shallower, offering easy pick-up by the dive boat.

14 Xlendi Cave and Reef

The dive starts with a swim through a tunnel that is only 2m deep in Xlendi Bay and 6m on the other side. From here, you dive to the left, to the outer, gentle drop-off, and around the reef which extends underwater from the headland. Part of this forms a pinnacle which should be avoided by boats. The cave is more popular at night, as it's a pleasant easy dive in shallow water.

Comino

The island of Comino is situated mid-channel between Malta and Gozo and is only 2sq km in size. The Blue Lagoon is legendary and countless boats make the daily pilgrimage to the sheltered shallow lagoon nestled between the main island of Comino and its smaller sister islet of Cominotto.

The northern shore of Comino is cut by numerous caves and caverns, many of which can be accessed both on the surface and underwater. All are teeming with fish, and this is a very popular area with snorkellers for feeding chromis, sand smelt and saddled bream. I don't agree with the practice, but droves of snorkelling and diving tourists seem to love the experience of being surrounded by thousands of fish which quite clearly enjoy the bread and eggs from hotel breakfast tables!

On the south-west point, a small lighthouse marks a subterranean reef, which drops vertically to a huge tumble of boulders with a superb chimney dissecting the cliff. This is definitely the best site around the small island and most dive centres will organise a boat trip from either Malta or Gozo to dive this gem. (Comino does have its own dive centre and arrangements can be made to coordinate catching the ferry and the dive boat.)

1 Lighthouse Reef

The best dive on Comino, down from a low rocky shelf at 6m, where the dive boat anchors. You start the dive at the entrance to a chimney, which drops through the limestone plateau and exits at 16m. The tunnel is wide enough for divers to manoeuvre without touching the sides and here you will find white-tufted worms (Protula tubularia) and lots of fireworms (Hermodice carunculata). The gravel base at the mouth of the cavern has a small group of purple heart urchins (Spatangus purpureus), while spiny starfish (Marthasterias glacialis) are common on the outer boulders. These boulders have created huge caverns and swim-throughs.

2 Inner Lantern Point

A dramatic dive down a vertical wall to huge boulders and large patches of posidonia. As you work along the wall, keeping it to your right, you come to a vertical slash in the limestone with a shallow cave.

3 Crystal Lagoon

The dive here involves swimming through a tunnel that cuts through the headland to the west of the island and back again. The bottom of the tunnel is littered with boulders, so it's generally quite clear of silt, but there are few fish in the area until you reach the sheltered lagoon. Here, cuttlefish, flounders, weaverfish and gobies can be found among the posidonia sea grass.

4 Cominotto Cave (Alex's Cave)

This is an interesting cave, with a sandy bottom and smooth sides sculpted by wave action. A torch is recommended for the rather gloomy 15m swim from the entrance, but the chimney at the back of the cave means, when the sea is flat calm, you can surface to natural light. Look out for the algae debris that tends to collect on the floor of the cave.

Essentials

Getting Around

The best bet is by hire car, which most people pick up at the airport on arrival. You'll find Hertz, Avis and Budget here (Budget has a deal with Air Malta), as well as many local firms, such as Westminster Car Hire (356 577172) on Malta and ER Car Rental (356 559977) on Gozo.

A word of warning: Maltese roads are far from perfect and you should check the tyres on your hire car, including the spare, before setting off. Punctures are commonplace.

The ferry between Malta and Gozo runs from Cirkewwa at the extreme north-westerly point of Malta to Mgarr Harbour on Gozo. This is a very regular service which runs 24 hours a day from May to September. The return trip costs Lm5:75 (£9) for car and driver and an additional Lm1:75 (£2.70) per passenger. A small passenger ferry goes from both Mgarr and Cirkewwa to Comino and costs Lm2 (£3) if you're not a resident.

Alternatively, Air Malta has a helicopter service from the airport on Malta to Gozo. The Gozo hotels and dive centres can arrange pick-up and transportation to avoid any driving at all. The dive centres can also arrange taxi collection from the airport.

Emergency Info

For medical emergencies, including all decompression accidents, a helicopter service is available with direct links to the police and nearest hospital. Emergency services: 196 Hyperbaric unit: 356 234766 General Hospital, Gozo: 356 561600 St Luke's Hospital, Malta: 356 241251/247860

Who to dive with

There are around 25 diving operations registered with the Maltese Ministry of Tourism, with a number of others (mainly German) operating seasonally in various hotels. The full list is available in the UK from the Malta Tourist Office (0171 292 4900) or from the Federation of Underwater Activities in Malta (FUAM), PO Box 29, Gzira, Malta. All visiting divers must have an up-to-date medical certificate. If you know the islands well and wish to dive independently, it is necessary to apply for a dive permit. Ask the Malta Tourist Office (see above) for details.

Weather

Diving conditions around the islands are entirely dependent on the prevailing winds, which are from the north-west or south-east and can blow out half the dive sites at one time. The most settled period is from June to September, when the sea temperature reaches 29¡C. A full suit is still required during the summer months, while a drysuit is recommended in winter, as the sea temperature can drop to as low as 13¡C . The clearest water is from November to March, when it can exceed 50m.

Maltese Driving

Poking fun at themselves, a local song tells of Maltese drivers driving in the shade. Let me tell you that it's true. In the land where the Ford Anglia is king and where Triumph Heralds come to die, Maltese drivers not only drive in the shade, but also avoid puddles, ignore traffic lights and overtake going over the brow of a hill. What with the faithful old Bedford and Leyland 'luxury' coaches taking visitors around the islands, not to mention the numerous Ford Cortinas, Hillman Imps and Rileys, this is a car connoisseur's dream island come true (except for the driving).

Where to Stay

The registered dive centres either have their own accommodation or are able to book any type you require, from a five-star hotel to a converted farmhouse with swimming pool. The centres are more than able to cater for large groups and can advise on which hotel would best suit you. There are also a large numberof budget hotels with prices at around Lm5 (£7.80) per night. Contact the Malta Tourist Office on 0171 292 4900 for details.